MultyDeck™ is ideal for small-space urban living:

In this video, you will learn how to build a deck for your small-space urban condo balcony.  The 4ft x 10ft sky-high oasis deck is built using composite decking boards, and features all the trimming steps to customize the fit of the MultyDeck around railing posts and electrical outlets.



ensure ground is flat and level

The MultyDeck™ bases can be assembled on virtually any type of surface including dirt or sand, gravel, sod, or cracked pavement, as long as it is flat and level.  Typically, condo balconies are flat and level, poured concrete slabs.  This is an ideal surface for installing MultyDeck.  There is no need to tie into existing structure.



deck boards, MultyDeck™ rubber bases, and tools

The this project, we are building a custom fit 4 ft x 10 ft floating composite deck with 6" composite deck boards.  

You will need:

•  6 pcs 6" x 12 ft solid-core composite decing boards, cut to 4ft lengths

•  12 pcs MultyDeck™ recycled rubber bases

•  1⅝" decking screws

•  tools:  utility knife, electric drill, circular saw, jig saw

•  straight edge, or square

•  pencil to mark boards for cutting



always wear PPE

As in all construction projects, remember to use the correct personal protective equipment.  Always wear safety glasses, and protect your hands by wearing all-purpose utility gloves. This will drastically reduce the risk of eye and hand injury.  


economical and eco-friendly

It all starts with our patented recycled rubber base.  Made from used car tires, diverted from landfill, the bases are durable, weather resistant and provide traction under the floating deck to minimize slippage.

In this video, you will learn how to manipulate the rubber bases to customize the MultyDeck installation to fit any small space.



measure the space to determine how much materials are needed, and custom cuts

Before starting the project, measure the size of the balcony and determine which direction the decking boards will run in the finished deck.  These measurements are critical to determining the material requirements. 

Because small spaces such as condo balconies often have railing plates, electrical outlets, sliding doors or swing doors, measuring you must decide if you will create a deck which custom fits around these, or whether you will cut the length of all boards to avoid these.

In this project, the deck is custom fit for the space, and so detailed measurements were required to trim each board for it's space.


place the rubber bases and full length boards without screwing them, to ensure fit

Now that you have measured and cut your boards, it is now time to do what I call "dry fitting your space".   


What this means, is that you are going to lay out all of the rubber MultyDeck bases and insert any full length decking boards so that you have a clear visual of what exactly needs to be cut.  This includes the plates for the railing balusters, electrical outlet or any other obstructions that you might face.

in this project, we cut the MultyDeck base to fit around the electrical outlet.

Ensure to leave a 5.5" gap between the bases for the joiner boards, when you are setting out your dry-fit layout.  Now, you will continue to do this, until your whole space is filled.   This step is helpful because it provides a clear visual of any obstruction that you will need to cut around for a custom fit.

Because our space is limited, we will need to infill the last piece of composite.  We do this by manipulating the pad by cutting it with a utility knife, and laying it down the piece, to create 5.5" spacing from the next base.  Cut the base to fit the infill space -- now you know the exact measurement required for the final composite board.  This is why dry-fitting is so important!


infill pieces can be added as joiner boards, but could be easier to add to panel

In this project, an infill piece was necessary to complete the custom fit of this small space.  By manipulating the rubber bases, it is possible to provide customized support for this infill area.  Furthermore, it can be added to an existing panel for one installation.   Alternatively, it can be placed on the rubber base support and added from the top, just like another joiner board.

Adding the infill to a panel ensures that the attachment is from the underside, and no screws will be visible from the top.  

Note:  this visual of the custom-made panel to include the infill space is not shown in the video.


as the old adage goes: "measure twice, and cut once"

Now that you have your space completely dry-fit, it's time to mark out the boards which need to be cut.  Simply measure and transfer all of the marks to the board.  Or, another technique is to align the board to the spot where it needs to be, and line up on either side of the plate, transferring marks to the board.  Then, take a straight edge or a square, to draw the lines joining the markings for the saw cuts.

Simple straight cuts such as trimming board lengths can be made with the circular saw.  Jig saw will be necessary for in-board cutting.

As the old adage goes:  "measure twice, and cut once".  Before cutting, double-check all measurements.  Take the time to line-up the boards with the obstructions, to visually ensure that your markings are accurate.



maximum space between bases should be 15-18"

Now that you have taken the time to dry-fit and make your cuts, it's time to pick everything up and assemble the panels. 


Take your rubber base and apply it to the composite, which is placed face-down on a flat surface. Put it at the recommended spacing, in this case 12" apart between bases.  Start at one end, with the end of the base flush to the end of the boards.  You will need two bases per panel, and will build five panels.

Next, use 1⅝" decking screws to secure the base to the composite, screwing through the rubber and into the back of the composite.  Remember to only dimple the rubber with the screwhead (or, alternatively, use a washer).  Avoid screwing all the way into the rubber.

Because the panels are built upside down, a towel was placed under the boards to avoid any scratching of the composite.

Flip the boards over and join them using joiner boards.


adding adhesive can help keep joiner boards in place on the rubber bases

Adhesive was used in this build, in two ways:

1.  As an optional step, you can add an adhesive to each one of the side supports of the MultyDeck bases.  Use this step only if you are not planning on making the deck transportable, to create a long lasting adhesion of the joiner boards.  Secure the joiner boards to the side supports of the MultyDeck base, by screwing into the top of the composite board, and into the rubber, as usual.

2. In this project, there is an electrical box obstructing placement of the final panel:   in this tight space, there is insufficient space to install a full panel.  Instead, each decking board can be placed into position on a MultyDeck base, from the top, and affixed with adhesive instead of screwing through the rubber into the composite from the bottom.

Finish by screwing from the face into the rubber.


when using composite boards, it is often best to pre-drill holes

When adding the joiner boards, these will be secured to the panels by screwing the edge of the joiner board into the patented side supports of the MultyDeck recycled rubber base.

However, when using composite boards, it is a good idea to first pre-drill the holes for the screws.  Use the appropriate drill bit to pre-drill the hole that will accommodate your screw.

Finish by screwing from the top, through the board and into the rubber, as usual.


enjoy your MultyDeck: maintain the composite boards

Remember that composite boards require maintenance, just as much as wooden boards do.  For high-rise condo balconies, conditions such as aridity and wind could spread dust and dirt.  Sweep often to remove dirt.  Composite boards need ventilation on the underside of the deck, to avoid long-term wet exposure.  The MultyDeck bases keep the boards elevated from the balcony floor, and ensure drainage.